What does Vyshyvanka say about Ukrainian National Identity?

The Ukrainian national costume is a form of significant and traditional storytelling, continuing to inspire modern designers who seek to infuse their collections with Ukrainian identity. In today's fight for independence, the essence of Ukrainian identity resonates more than ever. The Vyshyvanka, a traditional embroidered shirt, serves as a poignant symbol, reminding us of five powerful words: "Bravery, Freedom, Unity, Love, Peace.

The Ukrainian folk dress “Vyshyvanka'' is a derivative from the word “vyshyty”- meaning “to embroider”. Originally, Vyshyvanka is a long linen white shirt which incorporated a specific embroidery pattern. The embroidery's colours and patterns hold distinct meanings, depending on the chosen colour and symbols. The implemented ornamentation as well as colours differ within 27 regions of Ukraine. The embroideries reflect mostly animals, plants and geometric shapes that figurate on the apparel, but there are also heart shapes and wavy lines, which can be seen among others.[1]

The map of Ukraine in Vyshyvanka embroidery. Photo: Little Ukrainian Blog

Traditional Vyshyvanka Design, 1925. Photo: Wikimedia Commons.

Colours, shapes and identity

Ukraine, one of Europe's largest countries, consisting of 27 regions, each with unique cultural and historical influences from abroad. These diverse backgrounds have led local artisans to create distinct embroidery patterns and color schemes that reflect their region's specific heritage.

For example, if you travel to Western Ukraine, you will likely see geometric shapes, symbolizing the beautiful forests and mountains of the region. In contrast, floral and plant embroidery patterns are more popular in the Southern and Eastern areas. Flowers, leaves, and branches represent constant renewal and identity. That is why embroidering wedding dresses with floral ornaments was a very important aspect in Ukrainian traditions in the past.

Speaking of colour, Ukrainians imbue significant meaning into their choice of thread for embroidery. For example, white signifies purity and tenderness. Long ago, only unmarried girls wore Vyshyvankas with white thread, against misfortune. In contrast to many other cultures, black had a different meaning; it represented “mother earth” and well-being. Lastly, red is the most commonly chosen color for embroidery, symbolizing joy, love, and passion. In ancient Ukraine, people believed that wearing a Vyshyvanka of this vivid colour could provide the wearer with energy and protection from evil.

Combination of Red and Black colours with birds and nature on Vyshyvanka. Photo: Little Ukrainian Blog.

Floral embroidery on Vyshyvanka. Photo: Little Ukrainian Blog.

Women’s Craft Culture

The Vyshyvanka plays a crucial role in ‘female’ Ukrainian cultural rituals, such as weddings. Ukrainian women learn the skill of embroidery from an early age and continue to hone their skills throughout their lives, passing down their knowledge and techniques to the next generation. For men, however, this skill was not needed, so few were taught embroidery. This is why embroidering the groom's shirt by his future wife was a significant part of Ukrainian culture, as it was conducted to unite and integrate the genetic code of one family to another. [2]

Hand embroidered blouse from the Hutsul, Romania/Ukraine, 20th century, inv.nr. 2022.0379, Textile Research Collection

Historical example

Although primarily created by women, the Vyshyvanka was proudly worn by men as well. One of the most famous Ukrainian writers and poets, Ivan Franko, wore a Vyshyvanka daily. He believed that wearing traditional Ukrainian attire was a family tradition, which he wanted to pass down to future generations. Franko was one of the few who consistently upheld the national spirit despite multiple oppressions from the Russian Empire. By wearing a Vyshyvanka, he demonstrated braveness and power in the face of cultural discrimination. Remarkably, Franko often paired his Vyshyvanka with modern Western-style three-piece suits, seamlessly blending tradition with contemporary fashion. [3]

Ivan Franko, 1896. Photo: Euromaiden Press.

Common Stitching Techniques

Vyshyvanka usually has an intricate embroidery design. That is due to the use of a wide spectrum of techniques. For instance, one of the easiest and commonly used is Cross Stitch (Krestyk): this is one of the most basic and widely used stitches. It involves creating X-shaped stitches that form a pattern. Cross stitch can be used to create geometric designs, borders, or fill in larger areas. However, in order to add texture to the pattern, Ukrainian artisans would go for Chain Stitch (Zigzag), where stitch is formed by creating a series of loops that are linked together. 

If you ever happen to see Openwork Embroidery (Vyrubanka), it is considered to be the most difficult technique. It involves creating decorative cutouts or holes in the fabric and then stitching around the edges to create a lace-like effect.

Fragment of the white-on-white embroidered blouse produced by Nadia Vakulenko. Photo: Textile Research Center.

The habits of today

Today, the habit of wearing Vyshyvanka has resolved among hundreds of brand-new fashionable designs, but, fortunately, Ukrainians have kept the tradition to wear it on special occasions. For example, there is an annual celebration known as the "Day of Vyshyvanka," when Ukrainians wear these embroidered garments. This day is widely celebrated across the entire country, keeping the cultural heritage alive.

There is no doubt that Ukrainians regard the Vyshyvanka as a unifying shield that empowers and reinforces their national spirit. Ukrainian history is filled with accounts of their fight for independence, resistance against oppression, and efforts to protect their language. This enduring struggle and fight for their personal culture has forged a strong national identity, which is now expressed through the folk dress—the Vyshyvanka.

Even today, amidst the ongoing conflict with Russia, Ukrainians continue to demonstrate their resilience. Despite living in fear, civilians find the strength to stand up against aggression and raise their voices. Wearing the Vyshyvanka today is a powerful expression of nationality, especially during this crucial period in history.

Vyshyvanka on the Runway

Additionally, some of the world's most renowned designers have drawn inspiration from the Vyshyvanka. Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated elements of this traditional style into his bucolic Spring 2006 collection. The show featured male models wearing Vyshyvankas underneath suit jackets – a look popularised by Ivan Franko in the 19th century.

 Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2006 collection. Photo: Vogue.

Ukrainian designers have also excelled in reinterpreting the Vyshyvanka for the modern era. Vita Kin, for example, is a Ukrainian fashion designer renowned for her modern interpretations of traditional Ukrainian garments, including Vyshyvanka dresses and blouses. Her designs often feature intricate embroidery inspired by Ukrainian folklore and traditions. Kin aims to create remarkable designs "which create a mood." The brand claims they don’t follow seasonal trends but their designs derive from random sparks of inspiration.

Vita Kin design inspired by the Vyshyvanka. Photo: Vita Kin.

Cultural resilience

The Vyshyvanka serves as a national identifier, embodying Ukraine's cultural values and rich history. It unifies Ukrainians by highlighting individual uniqueness through specific colours and patterns while showcasing shared national values and a resilient spirit. This traditional garment has become a powerful symbol of activism against war, reflecting Ukraine's enduring fight to preserve its identity.

The book ‘Imperishable: Ukrainian State Symbols in Folk Embroidery and Weaving’ by Lesya Voronyuk, 2023. Photo: Novynarnia.

In the book "Netlinni," two authors discuss how different generations of Ukrainians have risked their social status, freedom, and even lives to display their cultural roots. This topic is especially relevant today. The book inspires those currently fighting for Ukraine, illustrating the strength derived from cultural unity. As M. Palaganiuk notes, ethnicity becomes most evident and significant during times of social tension within single or multiple communities.[4]